Chasing lazy South swells along the Jersey coast is friggin’ tiresome. Like a kook, I drove around searching for the best wave I could find and ended up surfing on my street by the end of the day. The waves were at least chest high, reeling right, and were slightly impaired by a pesky North in the offshore wind that blew almost all day.

After fighting the rising tide and struggling on a shortboard for a couple hours, I gave up–grabbing the log and paddling out at on my street. There is no reason not to ride a bigger board when the waves get this way. Pumping down the line on a wave with several fast sections is often super frustrating–especially if you’re not a complete shredder.

In this case, the choice in log was especially nice with an empty lineup and break in weather (it went from rainy and windy to beautifully sunny with a rainbow). Back sore and smiling, I was too tired to surf more so I snagged some pictures of the only other guy who was surfing up the street (believe this is @farmhaus on IG). The gallery below was taken as I stood (quite yeasty in my wetty) on the roof of my house. Enjoy…